Installation Guides

Just bought the perfect flooring for your home and choosing to self-install? From the tools and preparation to the measuring and fitting, here at Discount Flooring Depot, we’ve got all the tips you need to get started. But remember, while this handy guide will help you with the basic steps, it’s important to note that there are many different installation systems and you should always refer to your manufacturer’s guide before installing. We do always recommend using a professional fitter when laying flooring.

First things first; when you’re doing any kind of DIY, safety is paramount. If you’re choosing to self-install the laminate flooring within your home, it’s important to seek professional advice if you feel you need to or you become unsure at any step. Once you've ensured you are confident in your process, the next step is to make sure you follow the appropriate safety measures. We recommend:

To always wear safety goggles and a dust mask to protect your eyes and face when cutting the boards.

Wear gloves to protect your hands.

Wear knee pads when kneeling down on the hard floor for prolonged periods of time and take regular breaks.

Keep all adhesives and tools safely out of reach of children and ensure electric saws are switched off when not in use.

Now this has all been considered its time to get started. Below we have 3 sections explaining how each type of flooring is laid. Click the category of flooring you have ordered and we'll provide the details.

First things first, before you get started, get organised. Below is a list of tools we would recommend having ready for installing your flooring

Tape measure
Pencil
Rubber hammer
Straight edge or string line
Utility knife
Set square
Spacers
Tapping block
Square
Laminate beading
Wood adhesive

Now you’ve gathered all your tools and equipment, the next step is to prepare your sub-floor and chosen laminate flooring ready for laying:

Sweep, vacuum and clean the sub-floor of the room you’re planning to lay, ensuring it is fully dry, clear of any debris and any loose existing nails are hammered down. To ensure no problems when laying or in the future your subfloor should be completely levelled. This can be achieved using self-levelling compound or have the subfloor skimmed.
Lay down your chosen underlay in parallel lines stuck together with masking tape, ensuring you leave a 16mm gap around any pipes.
If your sub-floor is concrete, you’ll need a damp-proof membrane or an underlay with it integrated.
Ensure your laminate boards have acclimatised to the temperature and humidity of your room by laying (un-opened) horizontally in the room for 48 hours.

Followed all those steps? You’re ready to lay your laminate.

PLEASE NOTE: Installation guides may vary. Always read the full manufacturer’s recommended installation guides before installation.

Starting in a corner, lay your first board down and place spacers at intervals between the board and wall with a 10mm gap to allow for the natural expansion of the laminate.
Continue to the end of the wall, ensuring all the boards are properly locked into place.
If you need to cut the last board of the row to fit your room, determine the length you need to cut and use your square and pencil to mark a cutting line on the back of the board. Remember to use a spacer against the wall and factor this into your measurements before you cut.
Lay your second row starting with the off-cut piece of your last row and continue this process until your floor is covered, ensuring the joints are staggered by corresponding row. Use your hammer, tapping block and pull bar to ensure all the boards are fitted together securely.
The last row of boards may also need to be cut to size to fit your room. You can calculate the desired width by laying a plank over the last row you placed. Cut the last row to size and fit securely in place with your pull bar, remembering to factor in expansion space.

Fitting your laminate boards around your doorframe can be a difficult step in your self-installation process, but you have two options to consider:

Option 1:

Check that your door is able to open over the floor.
Accurately determine the areas of the boards to cut.
Use the mitre saw to cut the boards around the shape of the door and doorframe.

Option 2:

Measure the depth of your boards.
Use the mitre saw or hand saw to cut a strip from the bottom of the door.
Use the hand saw to do the same for the doorframe.
Slot the boards into place underneath, remembering to leave necessary expansion space.

To ensure a professional finish and bridge any gaps between your laminate and doorway, apply door trims on the line where your flooring meets the door and corresponding room.

Once you’ve laid all your laminate in place, the final step is to apply laminate beading around the skirting board, which serves to cover the expansion gap between the laminate and wall and create a seamless overall aesthetic:

Measure the length of beading required and mark the cut line with your pencil.
Cut each of the corners to a 45-degree angle in order for each piece to fit seamlessly together.
Apply the wood adhesive glue to the back of the beading, rather than the bottom.
Remove flooring spacers.
Press the beading into the skirting board and wipe away any excess glue. Do not stick to the floor.
Hold in place with tacks while the adhesive sets.

Follow these steps and laying your laminate should be as easy as possible!

Remember: Consult your manufacturer’s installation guide before proceeding and seek professional advice if you are unsure at any step of the process.

OTHER USEFUL GUIDES:

Recommended Tools:

Tape measure

Pencil

Rubber hammer

Straight edge or string line

Utility knife

Set square

Spacers

To make things easier for you, we’ve included the basic tools you’ll need in our installation kits.

Our LVT flooring can be installed over concrete, screed, timber and plywood subfloors and all evenly spread underfloor heating systems.

Sweep, vacuum and clean the sub-floor of the room you’re planning to lay, ensuring it is fully dry and clear of all debris. It is vital that your subfloor is perfectly level. We would advise either having the flooring professionally levelled or using a self-levelling compound.

Lay down the specific LVT underlay foil side up and ensure a gap of 16mm gap around any pipes

PLEASE NOTE: Always check the manufacturer’s recommended installation guide before installing.

Begin by laying the first row in the corner of the room on your left-hand side as you face the wall. Working from left to right and with the tongue towards yourself.
Lay the first row and use the rubber hammer to tap down on the short sides to connect the panels.
Use spacers to fill out any contours in the wall and ensure it is straight.
For the end piece of the row, measure the final plank to fit, ensuring that the recommended expansion gap is kept, and cut to size.
When laying the second row ensure that the joint is at least 20 to 30 cm different from the row while installing at random intervals.
Fit the second panel by sliding the groove under at angle of 25 degrees, into the tongue of the previous row. To ensure a tight fit knock along the long joint with the rubber hammer.
Continue this pattern until only the final row remains.
To fit the last row, lay a panel on top of the previous row with the groove towards the wall. Lay another panel upside down up to the edge of the wall and mark the panel underneath. Cut the panel to size and fit the last row.

To ensure a professional finish and bridge any gaps between your laminate and doorway, apply door trims on the line where your flooring meets the door and corresponding room.

Prefinished hardwood flooring not only allows you to stylishly transform your home, it also provides a great investment for any property. This guide highlights the essential information required for your hardwood installation.

We always recommend utilising the services of a professional fitter prior to beginning the installation of solid or engineered wood flooring due to the complex nature of the product. The number of environmental factors which can affect the integrity of the installation are high and can easily be overlooked by inexperienced DIY installers. The experience of a professional fitter will help to ensure many of the common problems which can arise during the installation of the product (or after) can be invaluable and will help you avoid many of costly pitfalls or difficulties of a DIY installation.

The following information is for guidance and information only and we cannot be held responsible for any problems which may arise as a result of utilising the information contained below. There are three methods that can be utilised to install hardwood flooring :

Glue Down – For solid tongue and groove flooring fitted over wood or concrete subfloor.
Nail/Staple – For engineered or solid tongue and groove flooring fitted over plywood.

Floating - For engineered or solid tongue and groove flooring fitted over plywood or concrete.

General Tools:

4” or 6” Level
Safety goggles
Chalk Line
Rubber Mallet
Crow Bar
Spacers
Electric Saw
Tape Measure
Hammer
Tapping Block
Jigsaw
Craft Knife

Glue Down Installation:

Notched Trowel
Flooring Adhesive
Adhesive Remover
Weighted Items

Nail / Staple Installation:

Electric Drill
Nail Punch
Staple / Nail Gun
Staples / Nails
Pliers
Wire Cutters

PREPARE YOUR SUBFLOOR

If required, remove all existing flooring and ensure that the subfloor is level and free from imperfections. Use a self leveling compound to level all low areas.

Perform all moisture tests according to manufacturers recommendations.

Allow your flooring to acclimatise in the installation area for a minimum of 5 days for engineered, 7 days for solid wood products, 48 hours is only acceptable for laminate flooring. The product must be stored in a flat position with no excess weight on top and inside the product packaging in which it was delivered. It is important to follow the advice of a professional fitter but The longer it is left to acclimatise the less likely you are to encounter issues later with heat expansion or contraction.
Ensure all doors and moldings are removed and vacuum subfloor.
Install flooring parallel to incoming light source. In narrow rooms, install parallel to the longest wall.

TIPS AND TRICKS

Always leave at least a ½” expansion perimeter. A greater gap may be necessary in humid climates.

Allow flooring to acclimatise in installation environment. Never store outside, in garages or in direct sunlight.
A moisture barrier should be installed between your flooring and your subfloor.
Joints should be staggered 2-3 times the width of the board for an even looking floor.
Inspect all boards thoroughly before you install them and cut away any damages.
Always cut into the pre-finished side of the flooring to avoid chipping the finish.
Use a tapping block to move the boards into position. The flooring will damage if hit directly.
All cutting should be done in another area to keep the installation area free from sawdust and woodchips.

GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION

Use this method for solid tongue and groove flooring fitted over a wood or concrete subfloor.

INSTALL THE FIRST ROW

Extra time should be taken when installing the first row of your flooring as it is vital that the first row is straight even if the walls are not.

Start at the longest wall and measure out your expansion gap (usually 1/2”) in several places and draw a chalk line.
Arrange your flooring with the groove towards the wall but do not glue yet. Spacers should be placed between the hardwood and the wall.
When happy with the fit, pile the boards in the order that they will be installed and put to one side.
Apply the adhesive to the subfloor according to manufactures instructions and re-install the first row of flooring using spacers between each board and the wall.
Squeeze the tongue and grooves together tightly and remove any excess adhesive.
Once you have reached the wall, measure, cut and fit the last board into place and add a spacer.
Allow the first row to completely set before continuing installation.

INSTALL THE MAIN PART OF THE FLOOR

Start the second row with a partial board (approx 8”-10” in length).

Apply adhesive to the subfloor and fit the hardwood together as you did with the first row and work your way across the rest of the floor.
Weigh down any areas where the flooring is not securely in contact with the subfloor using books, buckets or other heavy objects.

INSTALL THE LAST ROW

Once you have reached the end wall, measure out your expansion gap (usually 1/2”) in several places and draw a chalk line.

Arrange the last row with the tongue or cut towards the wall.
When happy with the fit, pile the boards in the order that they will be installed and put to one side.
Apply the adhesive to the subfloor according to the manufacturers instructions and re-install the last row of flooring using spacers between each board and the wall.
At the end wall, measure, cut and fit the last board into place and add a spacer.

YOUR FINISHED FLOOR

Ensure the flooring is firmly in contact with the subfloor using a 100lb – 150lb roller which can be rented from most equipment rental shops. Heavy objects can also be used to replicate rolling.

The adhesive should be left to set for between 8-24 hours. During this time do not walk or place anything on the flooring (e.g. furniture). Spacers can be removed once the flooring is completely dry.

NAIL/STAPLE INSTALLATION

Use this method for engineered or solid tongue and groove flooring fitted over plywood. Nails and staples should be chosen in accordance to manufacturers recommendations.

Each tongue should be fastened at proper intervals:

3”-4” for staples

4”-6” for nails

1”-2” for each end joint.

INSTALL THE FIRST ROW

Extra time should be taken when installing the first row of your flooring as it is vital that the first row is straight even if the walls are not.

Start at the longest wall and measure out your expansion gap (usually 1/2”) in several places and draw a chalk line.
Arrange your flooring with the groove towards the wall but do not secure yet. Spacers should be placed between the hardwood and the wall.
When happy with the fit, nail/staple the first row to the plywood at proper intervals.
Once you have reached the wall, measure, cut and fit the last board into place and add a spacer.

INSTALL THE MAIN PART OF THE FLOOR

Start the second row with a partial board (approx 8”-10” in length).
Fit this board together with the first row and use an angled stapler to secure in place.
Continue with this process until you reach the last few rows.

INSTALL THE LAST ROW

For the last few rows, your stapler may no longer fit between your flooring and the wall. Continue fitting your floor but do not staple. A rubber mallet should be used to secure each board tightly without damaging the hardwood.
For the last row, measure out your expansion gap (usually ½”) in several places and draw a chalk line.
Lay out your last row of flooring with the tongue or cut towards the wall and again tap with a rubber mallet to fit boards together.
Top nail / staple the last row in place. Nail in more frequent intervals as this row is holding several in place.

FINISH YOUR FLOOR

With this method, your hardwood floor does not need any time to set. Once the floor is finished, all spacers can be removed and you can begin using your new floor.

PROFILES AND NOSINGS

Twin Profile – For transitions between a floor and interior/exterior doorways and transitions between similar height flooring.

Ramp Profile – For transitions between two floors of different height, e.g. laminate to vinyl.

Nosing Profile – Used on steps and staircases to provide the proper overhang.

End Profile – Used for similar height floors and also used around brickwork (such as fireplaces).

OTHER USEFUL GUIDES

SAFETY ADVICE

To always wear safety goggles and a dust mask to protect your eyes and face when cutting the boards.

Wear gloves to protect your hands.

Wear knee pads when kneeling down on the hard floor for prolonged periods of time and take regular breaks.

Keep all adhesives and tools safely out of reach of children and ensure electric saws are switched off when not in use.

Installing Laminate Flooring

TOOLS NEEDED FOR FITTING LAMINATE

PREPARATION

HOW TO LAY LAMINATE FLOORING

PLACING LAMINATE FLOOR AROUND DOOR FRAMES

Check that your door is able to open over the floor.

Accurately determine the areas of the boards to cut.

Use the mitre saw to cut the boards around the shape of the door and doorframe.

Measure the depth of your boards.

Use the mitre saw or hand saw to cut a strip from the bottom of the door.

Use the hand saw to do the same for the doorframe.

Slot the boards into place underneath, remembering to leave necessary expansion space.

APPLYING LAMINATE FLOOR BEADING

Installing LVT Flooring

TOOLS NEEDED FOR FITTING LUXURY VINYL CLICK FLOORING

PREPARATION

Installing Engineered Flooring

TOOLS NEEDED FOR FITTING ENGINEERED FLOORING